I think of
July and August as the second season of fishing out here. First season is June
on the Firehole and Madison Rivers. Third season comes in September/October
when the westside rivers cool again and the trout run-up the Madison from
Hebgen Lake to spawn.
The
second season is the time to fish for cutthroat trout in the Park’s
Northeast corner. This is the native
trout in Yellowstone country, and its population is in great shape in the Lamar
River drainage and the Yellowstone River below the falls.
Aside from
the satisfaction of fishing for a native trout, the cutthroat is simply a
beautiful fish to behold with olive/copper-colored flanks, rose-hued gillplate,
and unique pattern of black spots. Its name comes from the bright orange slash
beneath the gills.
In the
world of trout fishing, the cutthroat trout is not known for its guile like the
brown trout, nor for its fight like the rainbow. While I’ll concede its lack of
fight, I find the cutthroat trout can be very selective and a rewarding
challenge to fool.
Aside from
its beauty, one other characteristic that makes this trout so fun to fish for
is its rise to a dry fly. In his book about fishing the Yellowstone River, Bob
Jacklin describes it as a “deliberate rise.” Unlike the slash-and-grab of
rainbow and brown trout, seeing a cutthroat come to the fly is like watching the
action in slow motion. If suspicious of
your offering, it will literally put its nose to the fly, pause, then turn away
unconvinced. When it does take the fly, it’s an unhurried pirouette back to the
bottom.
Faced with lots of fishing pressure, as is the
case nearly everywhere inside Yellowstone Park, the cutthroat gets downright
picky. It isn’t too long into the season before the cutthroat trout you
encounter will be just as difficult to fool as a brown or rainbow. (As Chris
Booth, my fishing buddy, jokes about fishing out here in the summer, trout can
probably tell which fly shop you bought that hopper pattern from.)
Just as
the cutthroat is a different kind of trout, so is the Lamar is a different kind
of river. The valley it runs through is referred to as “American’s Serengeti”
for its wildlife and panoramic vistas, but its namesake river is nothing much to
look at. Characterized by extremes of flow, it looks close-up like little more
than a gravel-lined ditch. Steeply gouged banks and sparse streamside
vegetation shows the marks left by the heavy snowmelt that keeps it unfishable
from spring snowmelt until early July. But, don’t let its looks deceive you,
nor its meander’s long distances between good fishing water. This is a great
trout stream. You can have Slough Creek. It’s a pleasant hike to an iconic
waters, but it’s overfished and not nearly the room to roam like on the Lamar.
Cutthroat
trout evolved to thrive in these sparse waters. Unlike rivers such as the
Firehole or Madison, a heavy hatch of aquatic insects is rare on the Lamar. On
this river, don’t be waiting for the hatch to begin. Yet, despite the apparent lack
of aquatic fertility that makes for lots of trout food, there is plenty of
insect life to support the Lamar’s thriving trout population. On average, the
cutthroat I catch in the Lamar are larger than even the browns I catch in the
Madison (fall run-up fish excepted).
Trout in
relatively infertile waters like the Lamar learn to be opportunistic feeders.
Selectivity here comes from the trout’s response to fishing pressure, I think,
not the luxury of keying on lots of the same aquatic insect available as in a
heavy hatch.
It is the
cutthroat’s opportunistic feeding that the angler can capitalize on. Ask most
anglers familiar with the Lamar what trout fly he/she would start with, and
chances are the answer will be a grasshopper pattern. To be sure, hoppers
become plentiful in Lamar valley with its expansive grass/sagebrush and strong
afternoon winds to blow insects into the river. But, when most anglers are all
fishing hopper patterns, cutthroat trout quickly learn to be selective.
Instead, I
have observed how freely Lamar trout take a mayfly. A mayfly on the Lamar, you
ask? Yes, mayfly. I experienced this during my 2012 season, and in a future
post, I’ll report on my experience already this season.
It is a
two hour drive from my dorm getting to the Lamar, so only on weekends do I have
time to get up there to fish. Add to that the real difficulty locking-in
lodging or a campsite in that part of the Park, and already I know I won’t get
to fish for cutthroat trout up often enough this season.
Dan: Great posting on fishing the NE section of Yellowstone National Park. I really enjoyed reading your article. A good reference for anyone wanting to visit and fish this area in the park. Thanks for bringing back many good memories for me. Martin
ReplyDeleteGlad you enjoyed the story, Martin. It's always good summertime fishing up in that part of the Park. Just had another good day of fishing there yesterday despite unusual weather. Hope to post about it soon.
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